Mechanism for preparing boot or shoe uppers for lasting



(No Model.) 6 sheets sheet 1.

0. 0T. GRITGHETT. I MEGHANISM FOR PREPARING BOOT 0R SHOE UPPERS FORLASTING. L No. 289,391. PatentedDec. 4, 1883.

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(No Model.) 6 Sheets-Sheet 2.

O. G. ORITGHETT. MECHANISM FOR PREPARING BOOT 0R SHOE UPPERS FORLASTING.

No. 289,391. Patented Dec. 4, 1883.

(No Model.)

' 0.'G. ORITGHETT. MECHANISM FOR PREPARING BOOT OR SHOE UPPERS FORLASTING. No. 289,391.

6 Sh'ets-Sheet 3.

Patented Dec. 4, 1883.

" @glQ Hill!" MJI (N6 Model.) Y e Sheets-Sheet 4-. I

O. G. CRITCHETT.

MECHANISM FOR PREPARING BOOT 0R SHOE UPPERS FOR LASTING. No. 289,391.Patented Dec; 4, 1883" N Pains. PnawLilhogn hnr. Wnihininn. n.c.

(No Model.) 6 Sneets-wSheefi 5.

. (LG. ORITCHETT. MECHANISM FOR PREPARING BOOT 0R SHOE UPPERS FORLASTING.

No. 289.391. Patented Dec. 4, 1883.

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(No Model.) 6 sheets sheet 6.

0. G. GRITOHETT.

MECHANISM FOR PREPARING BOOT 0R SHOE UPPERS FOR LASTING. No. 289,391. FPatented Dec. 4, 1883.

PATENT OLIVER G. ORITGHETT, OF BELFAST, MAINE.

MECHANISM FOR PREPARING BOOT OR SHOE UPPERS FOR LASTING.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 289,391, dated December4, 1883. Application filed January 11, 1883. (No model.)

To all whom it may concern.-

Be it known that I, OLIVER G. Gnrronn'rr,

of Belfast, in the county of Waldo and State of Maine, have invented newand useful Iniprovements in Preparing Boot or Shoe Vamps for Lasting,which invention is fully set forth in the following specification,reference being had to the accompanying drawings.

Figurel is a perspectiveview of my improved maehine. Fig. 2 is a sidesectional elevation of the same, the cap being shown in transversesection, and the hither cheek of the frame being removed to show theoperative parts. Fig. 3 is a detached rear elevation of the upperportion of the machine, the same being viewed. as from the left in Fig.2. Fig. 4 is a longitudinal vertical section of the machine viewed fromthe same standpoint as in Fig. 2. Fig. 5 is aseetionalelcvation, thesection being taken as on line B B, Figs. 2, 4, 7, and the view being asfrom the leftin Figs. 2 and 4. Fig. 6 is a front elevation of the lowerpart of the machine viewed from the right, as in Figs. 1, 2, 4, andshowing the lastingform in vertical section on line 0, Figs. 2 and 4.Fig. 7 is a sectional plan View of the machine, the portion above line AA, Figs. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, being removed. Fig. 8 is a detached frontelevation of the interior dies. Fig. 9is aside and rear perspective ofthe dies shown in Fig. 8. Fig. 10 is a side or edge elevation of one ofthe corrugated erimpingjaws. Fig. 11 is a top or plan View of the jawshown in Fig. 10. Fig. 12 is an inverted or under side plan view of theinterior dies shown detached in Figs. 8, 9. Fig. 13 is a detached top orplan view, showing the toe portion of the supporting-form, thecorrugated jaws, and the shoe-upper as being compressed between the formand jaws, and being corrugated, the illterior jaws being shown by dottedlines. Fig.

.14 is a plan view of the supporting-form with the upper thereto appliedpreparatory to crimping. Fig. 15 is a perspective view of a boot or shoeupper after being crimped and molded by my method. Fig. 16 is a viewsimilar to Figs. 14 and 15, showing the toe part of the last and insole,and the upper thereto applied, preparatory to being fastened, afterbeing treated by my improved method. Fig. 17

shows the toe portion of a last, insole, and

upper, the latter shown as being lasted in the usual manner.

Heretofore, when lasting shoes by hand, the upper was first placed uponthe last on which the bottoming was to be done, and was secured inproper position at theheel byataek. Then the toe portion was grasped bypinchers and drawn back upon the insole and secured by a tack, as shownin Fig. 17 after which that portion of the upper which overlies theinsole around the toe was subdivided by slits, and these subdivisionswerefolded down one upon the other, or else the overlay border of theupper was serrated like saw-teeth by cutting away alternate triangularportions thereof, so that the remaining portions would fold down side byside upon the border of the insole, when sides and around the heel, waseasily turned down and secured to the insole, as all such bottomportions of the upper are either at right angles to the plane of theinsole or are turned slightly inward, as at the heel, by reason of thecurvature of the seams; and when lasting by machinery it has always beenfound necessary to draw back the toe portion of the upper, as shown inFig. 17, and secure the same by one or more tacks before subjecting theupper to the action of the machine. The nethe remaining portion of theupper, along the cessity for this method of treatment arises from thepeculiar relations of the upper to the surface of the last orinsole atthe toewhen brought together, for while all the other portions of theupper are at or very near a right angle to the surface or plane of theinsole, and hence are easily folded down, the toe portion of the upperis more nearly in the same plane as the insole than at a right anglethereto, as

shown in Figs. 14 and 16, where a represents the outer line of the upperwhen first placed upon the last. b is the line of the toe of the last,and c the line to be occupied by a when the upper is turned back uponthe last; and

hence in proportion as line 0 is of less radius,

and therefore less length, than line a, the greater the consequentsurplus of leather between lines a and b, which must be disposed of whenfolded back upon the last; and, as above stated, this 11218 heretoforebeen done, when lasting by hand, by slitting and cutting out portionslike saw-teeth, or by slitting and overlaying, and when lasting bymachinery by either slitting or by doubling in the surplus at the sidesafter first drawing in the center, as shown in Fig. 17.

My method of lasting consists, primarily, in corrugating, crimping, orplaiting and molding the toe of the upper upon an iron form, withsuitable coacting devices as a preparatory process, and before theupper, the last, and insole are brought together, by which method andmeans that portion of the toe of the upper shown between lines a and b,Fig. 14, is first turned at right angles to the plane of the form, or ofthe lower edge of the upper, and is thrown into uniform corrugations, asshown in Fig. 13, and is next turned backand inward, as shown in Fig.16', and is at the same time laid in folds or plaits coincident with theprevious corrugations, and is by the same movement compressed with greatforce between the iron form or bed and the folding jaws, so as to bepermanently set or molded at the toe to lit the last and insole whenapplied thereto. After the toe of the upper is thus molded to conform tothe toe of the last and insole, the upper may be placed upon the last,and the entire remaining portion of the edge be readily folded down uponthe insole, either by automatic devices or by hand.

In the accompanying drawings are .shown novel devices for producing thedescribed operations upon the upper, with devices for actuating thesame; but such actuating devices may varied or supplemented by others,as greater force or rapidity of action may render necessary.

In said views, 2 represents the bed of the machine, which at the frontend is provided with the depending hollow boss or socket 3, in which ispivotally seated the shank at of the supporting-form 5. To avoid unduesize of shank 4, it is bottomed, for support, in socket 3, instead ofbeing shouldered upon bed 2, and by means of thin washers it may beelevated to bring form 5 at the exact height required for itsco-operation with the other devices. Two diverging ribs, 6, formed uponbed 2 and socket 3, cause the same to be mutually supporting. A plate,7, is arranged in ways upon bed 2, and is not only adapted to slidetherein, but has, as will be described, a slight sliding motion impartedto it. Upon plate or bed 7 is arranged to slide freely an incline, 8,which is formed with the sides 8 S, united by plate 8 and vertical rib8', all preferably formed as a single casting. A reversed and shorterincline marked 9) is seated upon incline 8, and is secured thereon bytongues and grooves, respectively formed therein, as shown in Figs. 5and 6. This lesser incline is, like incline 8, formed with the sides 9 9and with a uniting-top, 9", as shown in Fig. 4:, and a hollow boss 011the same receives the standard 10, secured rigidly ,in sliding bed 7,the top of said slide 8 being cut away, so as not to engage saidstandard.

Said incline Sis moved back and forth on bed 7 by lever 11, pivoted to aprojection on bed 2, and connected with incline 8 by rod, 12, as shownin Fig. 1, or by any suitable means by hand or power.

A pair of jaws, 13 13, are pivoted on standard 10, the interior faces ofwhich are smooth, and are lined with an elastic spring, 14, which in itsnormal position is of slightly less curve than the interior line of saidjaws when closed, and so tends to open the jaws when not otherwisecontrolled. Said spring is held in position relatively to the jaws bypins 15, which are secured to the spring near its ends, and pass looselythrough corresponding holes in the jaws. Said jaws rest upon the upperface of incline 9, and are raised by the same when incline 8 is movedforward thereunder. An upper pair of jaws, 16 16, are also pivoted uponstandard 10, and rest upon the upper side or face of jaws 13, and upontheir inner faces are formed with grooves 17, which extend downward fromthe upper line of the face with a diminishing depth, and terminate justabove the lower line of the face. The remaining metal between grooves 17constitutes ribs or teeth 18, as shown. These jaws are shown in plan andedge elevation in Figs. 10, 11. A helical spring, 19, is arranged onstandard 10 between jaws 16 and a thin head or set-collar at the top ofthe standard, Figs. 2, 5, which constantly acts upon the jaws and causesthem to bear upon incline 9, whether the same rises or falls. A pair ofjaws, 20 20, are hinged together at 21 in the upper extension, 29,thereof, Figs. 2, 3, 8, 9. The lower end of these jaws (shown in plan inFig. 12) is formed with a concave line, 22, of less radius than that ofthe toe of form 5, and they are shouldered down at 23, thereby leaving aprojecting face, 24, which acts upon the upper of the shoe, as will bedescribed. Said jaws 20 are supported and actuated as follows: Astirrup, 25, is attached to screw 26 by a pivotal stem of the latter,and is secured thereon I by a supporting-pin in the stud, Figs. 2, 3,and said stirrup is secured, as shown in said figures, to the guide-bars27 which bear against and are guided by the inner faces of the sidestandards, 28, which are secured to the main bed 2. A cross-bar, 30, issecured to the bottom of side bars 27, and a similar cross-bar, 31, issecured to the top thereof, said crossbars 30 and 31 extending not onlyentirely across bars 27, but inside of the projecting ledges 41, formedon the inner sides or faces of standards 28, whereby bars 27 serve aslateral guides, while bars 30 31 serve as guides to prevent bars 27 fromdisplacement toward the front or rear. The rear side of jaws 20 isformed inclined, as shown at 32, while the front face of extension 29 isformed with an incline, 33, the prolongation of which would be parallelwith incline 32, and the cross-bars 30 31 are beveled and arranged torespectively screw 26 is turned upward the requisite distance, jaws 20-are supported on cross-bar 31f isforcedinto plaits coincident with thegrooves by the engagement of the under shoulder of or teeth in the jaws,and is turned upward and extension; 29, as shown in said Fig. 2, andslightly inward relatively at a right angle to 70; when said screw isturned downward, jaws 20 the top of form 5. Then the smooth or con 5retain their position relative to cross-bars 30 tinuous line of thelower edge of jaws 16 has 31 till the lower face, 24, of the jawsencountpassed the upper face of form 5, the springers the upward edgeofthe upper of the shoe, lining 14 of jaws 13 begins to act on the upperwhen bar 30 begins to slide downward .upon and secures the same inposition as left byjaws 75 incline 32, thereby forcing the jaws forward,16,whichlatter jaws, as soon as they rise above while screw 26 continuesto force them down form 5, will (by their opening-spring 39, Fig. ward,at the same time bar 31 moving down. 7, secured on arms 40, extendingfrom the rear vertically, and so releasing or moving from of the jaws)be swung open and partly over incline 33 in the same ratio as bar 30moves compressing-bars 33, whose upper edge is at 80 the jaws forward,and when screw 26 moves the same level as the top of form 5. hen 15upward, bar 31 moves the jaws backward to upper jaws, 16, are thus swungoutward. and first position, as shown in Fig. 2, WVheu bar the lowerjaws, 13, have been raised to the bar, 30 begins to act on incline 32,as stated, level of the upper edge of the compressingthe side bars 27encounter the side faces or bars '36, the hinged jaws are moved di- 85inclines, 34, of jaws 20, and thereby force them rectly downward tillthe projecting face 24 23 inward, they turning on their hinge 21 at therests upon the upturned edge of the toe porrearof extension 29. Thus thejaws 20, when tion of the upper (I, when, as screw 26 conbeing operated,have a threefold movement. tinues to descend, the jaws 20 will, in addi-They descend, move forward by the action of tion to their descendingmovement, also be 0 crossbar 30, and swing inward on the pivot movedbodily forward by the action of bar 2 5 of hinge 21 by the action ofside bars 27. 30 on the rear incline; 32, of said jaws, and In the lowerface of one of the jaws 20 is they will be swung inward by side bars 27secured steel die 35, which is recessed into ,acting on inclines 34 ofsaid jaws, whereby the projecting wall 24, so as to extend at all times,part a of the upper at the front end. of form 5 5 across the space orjoint between said jaws, so ;will be turned back upon the form, and that1 30 as to present a continuous line of bearing portion of the upperthat is at the sides of the against the shoe-upper when the j aws actthereform next the toe will. be turned inward, and on. r The two pairsof jaws 13 13 and 16 16, the entire toe portion of the upper that waswhicharepivotedonthestandard10,areforced' turned upward and crimped byjaws 16 will IOO inward by the action of pressure-bars 36 36, be thusnot only turned down upon the form, 3 5 which are adjustably attached tosides 8 of but will be firmly compressed thereon, and so incline 8 byadjusting-screws 37 37 and 38 38, molded that the plaits or folds willbe permaas shown in Figs. 1, 2, 4, so as to produce the nently set toshape, asshown in Figs. 15 and 16, requisite pressure upondifferent-sized jaws, and the upper may thenbe taken from the form 10 5said bars moving forward with their said supand transported or laidaside, and used at any o portingslide and forcing inward the jaws 13time without in 'any degree losing such crimp- 16, as stated. ing,molding, and setting to shape, and, when Having describedtheseveraloperative parts applied to the last, as shown in Fig. 16, will of mymachine and their immediate relations perfectly conform thereto at thetoe, while 110 to each other, I will now describe the practical all theother parts of the edge of the upper can 4 5 operation of the machine.taking the several be readilyturned down upon and secured to the detailsor movements in their operative order. insole, either by hand or theusual machinery, Form 5 being swung to the right, as shown as beforestated. An abutment, 42, secured in Fig. 1, the upper d of the boot orshoe is on slide 8 by a bolt seated in a slot therein, 115 placedthereon, as shown in Fig. 14, when the as shown in Figs. 2, 4, 7, is soarranged on form is swung into axial or central relation to said slideas to encounter the rear ends of jaws the machine, as shown in Figs.2,4, 6, 7 ,when 13 16 just before jaws 16 swing outward after inclineS(which had been withdrawn) is moved rising above bars 36. Said abutmentacting forward, thereby bringing its side bars 36 in directly upon saidjaws serves to move them no contact with and closing in the toothed jawsagainst the upper with greater force than- 16 and the lower smooth jaws,13, which closcould be done through the agency of standard ing in occursbefore jaws 16 rise sufficiently 10 moving with sliding bed 7. Aneccentric to act on the shoe-upper; but as incline 8 ad or cam, 43,pivoted to bed 2, Figs. 1, 2, 4, 7, vances it forces up the shortincline 9 and the can be adjusted to limit the distance which 12: jaws13 and 16resting thereon, whereby jaws slide 7 shall move when abutment42 acts on 16 first encounter the upper directly after they the jaws, asstated, and a pin, 44, secured in are forced inwardby bars 36, and, asthe slide 7, is arranged to encounter standard 28 jaws continue to rise,their teeth 18 encounter when slide 7 moves rearward, and so arrest theandforce inward the shoe-upper, which eX- movement of the slide as soonas the abutr 0 tends beyond the toe of form 5, as shown at a, ment 42has moved slightly from the j aws; Fig. 14, and as the jaws still rise,and the I claim as my inventiongroove 17 and teeth 18 become more andmore 1. In a vamp-crimping machine, the combishallow, such projectingborder a of the upper nation, with jaws, substantially as shown,

' of the vamp is turned above and at right anadapted to crimp and foldthe toe of the up I per, of support 5, pivotally mounted and arranged tobe swung into position to co-operate with the jaws in their operationupon the leather, and to be swung out of such position for removal andreplacment of the upper, substantially as specified.

2. In a vampcrimping machine, the combination, with the crimping andfolding jaws and a supporting-form, of the coacting inclines 8 and 9,with means for actuating the same, and adapted to elevate and releasethe jaws, substantially as specified.

3. In a vamp-crimping machine, the combination, with a supporting-form,of crimping jaws, substantially asdescribed, arranged to move towardsuch form in a direction at right angles to the plane thereof, wherebythe toe gles to such plane, substantially as specified.

4. In a vamp-crimping machine, the, combination, with thesupporting-form, of crimping-jaws constructed and arranged,substantially as shown, 'to be moved toward such form in a direction atright angles with the plane thereof, and tobe closed against andreleased from the sides of the form, substantially as specified.

5. I11 a vamp crimping machine, the jaws 16, toothed as described, andarranged to be moved into co-operation with the supportingform in adirection at right angles to the plane thereof, substantially asspecified.

6. In a vamp-crimping machine, the combination of toothed jaws 16 andsmooth-faced jaws 13, arranged to coact therewith, substantially asspecified.

7 In a vamp-crimping machine, thejaws 1.6, formed with diminishingcrimping-teeth 18, and with a smooth line or border of theface adjacentto the teeth, substantially as specified.

8. In combination with jaws adapted to crimp, turn, and hold the upper,substantially as set forth, the coacting jaws constructed and arrangedto fold and compress the crimped edge upon the supporting-form,substantially as specified.

9. In combination with jaws adapted to hold the projecting edge of theupper at right angles to the plane of the form, jaws 20, provided with athreefold motion-that is, adapted to move toward the plane of thesupporting-form, to move along the same toward the heel portion, and toswing inward over the same, substantially as specified.

10. The jaws 20, formed with a hinged extension, 29, for supporting andactuating the jaws, substantially as specified.

11. The jaws 20, formed or provided with inclines 32 33 and coactingbars 30 31, and means for actuating them, substantially as specified.

12. In combination with pivotal jaws 20, die 35, arranged to extendacross the joint between the jaws, substantially as specified.

13. The jaws 20, formed with side inclines, 34, and bars 27, to actthereon to close the jaws together, substantially as specified.

14.. The combination of sliding bed 7, the crimping and holding jawsthereby supported, the elevating incline 8,and its adjustable abutment42, arranged to force the jaws against the upper, substantially asspecified.

15. The combination of supporting-form 5, toothed crimping-jaws 16,securing-jaws 13, folding jaws 20, and means for actuating therespective jaws, substantially as specified.

16. In a crimping-machine, the combination of 'two pairs of jaws andmeans for actuating the same, one pair being adapted to turn and crimpthe upper, and to be swung open when the second pair are in contact withthe upper and in position to secure the same to the form, substantiallyas specified.

17. The herein-described method of preparing the upper or vamp of bootsand shoes for lasting, the same consisting in crimping, folding, andsetting to form, substantially as described, the toe portion thereofwhen supported upon a form and before applying the upper to the last andinsole, substantially-as specified.

OLIVER G. GRITOHETT. Vitnesses:

T. WV. PORTER, EUGENE HUMPHREY.

